The world’s COVID experiences are changing on an almost daily basis; while Australia and New Zealand emerge from lockdown with an incredible record of virus containment and Europe starts to see the end of its awful peaks of deaths, Zambia’s cases increase at an erratic rate, largely due to the inconsistent level of testing here.

In many ways, we are fortunate to have been in Zambia during this period. This is our home so we would not want to be anywhere else, but it has given us unrestricted access to the South Luangwa National Park and unlimited outdoor time, luxuries that many in Europe have been without for a long period. We have never taken that fortune for granted. But I find myself increasingly envious of the situation in Europe; while times have been really tough (and I am not under-estimating it for a moment) EU governments have taken charge of the situation and enforced the necessary restrictions to protect the healths of the nations.

There has been no such leadership in Zambia, with a strong feeling that we are sleep-walking into whatever experience the virus will bring for us. This is not to say that it will be awful, as it may not; we have a young population here, most of whom will shrug off the virus, and very little movement of people compared to most developed nations. But we simply do not know what is coming.

Of course, people in developing nations are less able to deal with the restrictions that developed nations have enforced to protect themselves. But a ban on non-essential movement of people across provincial boundaries and the ban of large gatherings, especially for funerals, would have been manageable and sensible controls. By way of illustration, a woman who had COVID symptoms was recently tested in Lusaka. Before her results came back, she got on a bus, travelled across the country and attended a funeral with 500+ people. While at the funeral in Eastern Province, she received notification that she was COVID positive; more than 700 people are now involved in a contact-tracing process, all of which could have been avoided had there been tighter restrictions on movements.

Nevertheless, life in the bush continues as normal and I have had another wonderful week in Nature. COVID has brought much suffering and hardship across the world, but it has also allowed our planet to breathe and take stock, something for which I am very grateful. Many people have asked if there has been a change in the behaviour of animals without any visitors to the park. It’s hard to tell but suffice to say the animals are certainly showing themselves at least as much as normal! I am seeing more rarities as well, but that might be because I am spending a lot of time on my own where my attention is fully on my surroundings, rather than shared as it is when I guide guests.

So, as before, here is this week’s update from the South Luangwa. Thank you for following the journey with me.

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

From the front verandah of our house, we have a daily procession of elephants, giraffe and various antelope. One evening, a family herd brought two young calves to visit….despite it being almost dark, I managed to push the camera to capture something of the scene.

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

I enjoyed a morning with 3 young hyaenas who played for a while with an adult who was baby-sitting them. They were fascinated by my vehicle, and my clicking camera, sometimes coming right up to the wheels to sniff and investigate!

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

I rounded a corner one day and the road was full of elephants! A family herd of 2 adults and two calves was approaching me fast, pursued by a larger bull behind. The bull was clearly interested in one of the females, but they were nervous of his approaches, so were running for cover. When the family had passed, the bull took a moment to investigate the droppings left behind by one of the females.

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

We have had sightings of a number of “rarities” recently, including several bird species that are very uncommon here. Whether this is due to the reduction in traffic in the park, or whether it’s because we are looking more carefully, I can’t be sure. But it’s certainly very unusual to get a sighting of a bush pig like this, out in the open during the day.

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

While watching the bush pig, I could hear baboons calling in the distance. I went to have a look, and found a leopard approaching the area from one side and wild dogs from the other!

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

There was a moment when the leopard paused to growl at the dogs, twitching her tail aggressively, before fleeing into the bushes.

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

I found her again later in a rather more relaxed pose.

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

The dogs stormed through the area – as they do – scattering the twitchy impala into the bushes. The puku, who prefer to stay out in the open, remained and observed the situation carefully….

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

….but some zebra couldn’t help themselves and came to investigate the dogs….

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

…before being chased off by the predators! Dogs won’t take adult zebras, and the zebras knew it, but they couldn’t resist chasing them and testing their agility.

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

The mornings are getting cold and the fog rising off the lagoons is beautiful as the early sun beams pierce through the canopy.

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

And the strong, angled light equally makes photography challenging…

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

….but also dramatic!

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

Late one morning I was just settling in for a nice photo session with a lagoon full of water birds, when a fish eagle landed in a nearby tree and scattered them all!

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

I was left with one spoonbill….

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

…and a pied kingfisher!

Wildlife image from photo safari with edward selfe.

The bush is starting to dry, with the bluey-greens softening to yellowy-greens and then to browny-yellows, but there are still rich, lush areas of thicket which provide cover for all in the heat of the day.

Until next week, all the best and take care of each other.